Encens — Issue 53

The spring/summer 2025 issue of Encens, the Paris fashion biannual, which looks at the appeal of 1984.

Encens has been published since 2002. Its editor-in-chief, Samuel Drira, co-founded it with the photographer Sybille Walter, and it approaches fashion as an art form, from the designer's point of view rather than through trends.

A 55-page archive feature explores why the magazine is so taken with 1984, suggesting among the reasons the constant building up and breaking down of Comme des Garçons clothes, and the plain linens of Giorgio Armani in new greys and with minimal design.

Angelo Flaccavento writes at length on Iceberg, the knitwear brand that caused a sensation in 1983. In a long interview with Rhys Evans, Adrian Appiolaza of Moschino speaks about creativity, being an outsider and claiming one's freedom. Maud Remy-Lonvis contributes a portfolio made in Chile's Atacama, a place where rain comes about once a decade, and a separate feature draws on the private image archive of Gregory Brooks, from Rare Books Paris.

Encens, Spring/Summer 2025. Softcover, 24 x 32 cm.